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昨日、関西で法要がありそのついでといってはなんですが、浜松の友達のところによって少しサーフィンをやってきました。彼は高校の同級生で高校時代に一緒にサーフィンを始めた親友です。とにかく高校３年間ずっと遊んだ仲間なので、お互いにいいところと悪いところ、カッコイイところと超カッコワルイところも全部知っている悪友なのです。いまはムラサキスポーツの浜松店店長をやっていて、お互い高校卒業後は別な大学に進学し、まともに就職していったので、いま二人ともサーフィン業界で働いているのが不思議です。
また、もう一人、「カラジシ」というバーを営む先輩のユーゾウさんも一緒にサーフィンしました。
波はコシムネと、もひとつでしたがここ浜松でも久しぶりのうねりのようでたくさんの人がサーフィンしていました。そこで友達のサーフィンを見てふと思いました。
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| これだめな例↑ |
前向きって人生や仕事ではいいんですが、サーフィンでは禁物。というより横乗りといわれるスノーボードやスケートボードもたぶんそうでしょう。先日スケートパークでスケートをやったときもそうだったけどしっかり横向きで両足に加重していないと絶対にうまく行きません。
そこでサーフィンですが、上体が前を向くときは状況によっては当然あるのですが、膝が前に向くことは避けなければいけません。そこをロックすることで上体をひねったときにボードにその動きを伝えることができるのです。ボルトとナットの関係のようなもの。つまりボルトをいくらまわしてもナットが一緒に回っているうちは締まりません。ボルトをまわしてナットをロックすることで初めて締まるのです。
これは特にカットバックや大きなボトムターンをするときに重要です。このロックがなければドライブが違ってきますし、さらに上体が前に向きすぎると前足加重になりすぎてレールが食ってワイプアウトです。行きたい方向にカラダを向ける前にしっかり体重をボードに乗せてから次々上体をガイドする。そのときには下半身はロックするということです。
一度やってみてください。
田村 誠
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2008年12月24日 03:08 [ PZjgFHpeNYmlPKQEe ]